巴布亞新幾內亞咖啡生產歷史並不長。雖然咖啡種植早在19世紀90年代便開始了,但最初並未被視爲商業產品。到了1926年,18座莊園成立,當時使用的是來自牙買加藍山咖啡(Blue Mountai)的種子。到了1928年,咖啡產業纔開始蓬勃發展。
The history of coffee production on the island is not long. Although coffee planting began in 1890s, it was not regarded as a commercial product at first. In 1926, 18 manor gardens were set up at that time using seeds from Jamaica Lanshan coffee. The coffee industry began to flourish in 1928.
20世紀50年代,產業開始有了結構性發展,隨着基礎設施的興建,島上的咖啡相關活動得以蓬勃發展。另一波更長足的發展則出現在20世紀70年代,原因可能在於巴西咖啡產量下滑。那時政府有一系列的補助方案鼓勵小型農場改由共同合作社經營。
In 1950s, the industry began to develop structurally. With the development of infrastructure, the coffee related activities on the island flourished. Another significant development was in 1970s, probably due to a decline in coffee production in Brazil. At that time, the government had a series of subsidy schemes to encourage small farms to be operated by co operative cooperatives.
業界當時多半着重於莊園的管理,但自20世紀80年代起,當地產業結構開始改變,重心也出現分散的情況。或許因爲咖啡價格下跌,使許多莊園因此陷入財務危機。相較之下,小農戶受市場場波動的影響較小,因此得以繼續生產咖啡。
At that time, the industry mostly focused on the management of the manor, but since 1980s, the local industrial structure has begun to change and the center of gravity is also dispersed. Perhaps because of the decline in coffee prices, many farms are in financial crisis. By contrast, small farmers are less affected by fluctuations in the market, so they can continue to produce coffee.
如今島上95%的生產者皆爲自給自足的小農戶,生產全國90% 的咖啡,品種幾乎全數爲阿拉比卡。這也表示境內相當大比例的人口都與生產咖啡有關;尤其是居住在高地區域的人們。這點對生產大量高質量咖啡來說是個極大挑戰,因爲許多生產者缺乏使用恰當的採收後處理的渠道。缺乏產銷履歷,也使高質量咖啡無法得到應有的獎勵。
Today, 95% of the island's producers are self-sufficient small farmers, producing 90% of the country's coffee, almost all varieties of A Labica. It also means that a large proportion of the population in the territory is related to the production of coffee, especially those living in the highlands. This is a great challenge for the production of large quantities of high quality coffee, because many producers are short of proper harvesting channels. Lack of production and marketing experience also makes high quality coffee unable to get the rewards it deserves.
產銷履歷 /Product sales resume/
不少大型莊園仍然經營得有聲有色,因此要找到來自某一莊園的咖啡是可能的。產銷履歷的概念在島上的歷史並不長,過去有些咖啡農也會從其他生產者那裏買入咖啡,包裝成自有品牌來銷售。將咖啡以區域分別販賣是相當新的做法。不過島上的海拔與土壤確實使此地咖啡擁有絕佳的潛力,因此過去幾年也開始吸引了精品咖啡業者的注意。購買時可着重於能夠追溯到單一莊園或生產者集團的咖啡豆。
Many large manor gardens still run very well, so it is possible to find coffee from a manor. The concept of production and marketing history is not long on the island. In the past, some coffee farmers also bought coffee from other producers and sold it as a private brand. It is quite new to sell coffee separately in the region. However, the elevation and the soil on the island really have great potential for coffee in the region, so the past few years have begun to attract the attention of the boutique coffee producers. When buying, you can focus on coffee beans that can be traced back to a single estate or producer group.
◆ 巴布內新幾內亞Papua New Guinea
咖啡口感 /Coffee taste/
通常都帶着奶油般的綿密口感 /Cream/
擁有絕佳的甜美度 /Sweet/
與獨特的複雜度 /Complexity/