與水洗處理法和日曬處理法兩大傳統處理方法並列,蜜處理方法也成爲咖啡處理方法中的一支獨秀。蜜處理即honey或者miel,honey即爲蜂蜜的意思,miel是拉丁語中蜜的意思,所以這種方法的豆子總讓人聯想到香甜。在很多場合和條件下,似乎plupednatural處理法也被視同爲蜜處理,到底兩者之間是否有區別,區別是大是小,CoffeeReview給了我們進一步的說明,希望下面的一段摘自coffeereview的文章能夠讓大家對密處理有更深入的認識。
咖啡處理方法:蜜處理
HoneyandPulpedNaturalCoffees
byKennethDavids;ReviewsbyKennethDavidswithJasonSarley
“Honey”isarelativelynewtermdescribingcoffeethathasbeendriedwithallorsomeofthestickyfruitpulpor“honey”(mielinSpanish)stilladheringtothebean.Thosefamiliarwithcoffeeprocessingmethodswill,ofcourse,recognizethispracticeasakindofcompromisebetweentwomorefamiliarprocessingmethods:thedryor“natural”method,inwhichthebeansaredriedwhileentirelyencasedinsidethefruit,andthewetor“washed”method,inwhichallofthesoftfruitresidue,bothskinandpulp,arescrubbedoffbeforethecoffeeisdried.Likeallvariationsinprocessingmethod,honeyprocessingprofoundlyimpactscupcharacter,whichisdoubtlessthemainreasonproducers,particularlyinCentralAmerica,havebeenexperimentingwithit.Allofthenineteenhoneycoffeeswecuppedforthisarticleappeartohavebeenspeciallypreparedsmall-lotcoffeesintendedtoexcitethehigh-endspecialtymarket.Judgingfromoursampling,whatcanacoffeeloverexpectfromtheseexperiments?
SomethingDifferent
Thesehoneycoffeesdidnotdramaticallyorspectacularlydeviatefromthe“washed”orwet-processedsensorynormforfinecoffee,buttheydiddeviate.Theywererounderinacidity,withlesscitrusybrightnessandmorechocolate,morearomaticwood,andgenerallyabitmoresweetness.
SomethingLessPredictable
Thesehoneysamplesnotonlyweredifferentfromthewet-processednormgenerally,buttheyalsowerequitedifferentfromoneanother.AllofthehoneysampleswecuppedthismonthoriginatedinCentralAmerica:ElSalvador,CostaRicaandNicaragua.Hadwecuppedthesamenumberofconventionalwet-processedcoffeesfromthesesameorigins,wesurelywouldnothaveexperiencedasrichanddiverseasetofsensoryexpressionsaswedidwiththesehoneycoffees.
Inpartthismaybebecausesensoryexpectationsareclearlyestablishedforwet-processed,high-growncoffeesfromCentralAmerica,andproducers,graders,exportersandimportersalltendtoessentiallyeditcoffeestomakesuretheyfittheseclearlydefinedexpectations.Nosuchclearexpectationshavebeenestablishedforhoneycoffees,allowingproducersanopenplayingfieldfortheirexperiments.Notthatanyofthesampleswereceivedshowedclearsignoftaint.Infact,overallthesehoneysampleswereremarkablyfreefromtaintandconsistentlyagreeable,althoughagreeableindiverseways.
Forexample,theElSalvadorCasasdeLaminafromTempleCoffee(92),withitshintofbrandyishfruitfermentoverlayingacherryishdarkchocolate,suggestedaquieter,morerestrainedversionoffruitynatural-processedcoffees.Ontheotherhand,theCaffeLadroElSalvadorLaRoxanita(92)wasrichlydryandtartlysweet,astructurewemightexpectfromawet-processedcoffee,thoughtheintensechocolate-tonedrichnessIsuspectderivesfromthedeepeningandroundingimpactofthehoneyprocessingmethod.TheElSalvadorElRubiHoneyfromKlatchCoffee(91)waslushly,almostheavilyfloralincharacterandquietinacidity,bothcharacteristicsthatwemightexpecttobeintensifiedbythehoneyprocess.Finally,theNicaraguaPlantioelAserraderofromVelton’sCoffee(90)cameacrossasatrans-oceanicvariationoftheearthand