作者:未知 來源:咖啡豆: 咖啡知識 > 意式咖啡 > 2025-04-14 01:50:11
深入瞭解crema本質對於咖啡師製作一杯好喝的濃縮將會有很大的幫助,重慶百瑞斯塔咖啡師培訓課程老師今天要給您詳細分析crema,幫助您瞭解意式濃縮咖啡,提升咖啡製作技術。
在尋找一杯不苦,風味絕佳的濃縮的過程中,每天都可能會碰到糟糕的濃縮,而crema是其中很重要的一個指標。無論是去店裏喝還是在家自己做,一杯有着厚厚的深棕色的crema的濃縮都是我們所追求的。
覆蓋着一層crema的濃縮在咖啡吧最早被製作出來現在通常都被認爲要歸功於Achille Gaggia(第一位設計出提供切實高壓的咖啡機意大利人)。實際上如果你有看過二戰之前咖啡機的廣告海報,比如非常經典的Victoria Arduino的海報你會看到圖中的濃縮幾乎沒有crema,只是一杯黑色液體。Gaggia的『Crema Naturale』咖啡機運用了拉桿活塞,它改變了所有主流咖啡飲用者對濃縮的認知,當然最先受到衝擊的應該是Gaggia他本人。
現如今,說到關於濃縮的定義都少不了關於crema的描述。Illy Cafe——在很多意義上來說他們已成爲行業標準制定者,他們對於濃縮下的定義是這樣的:
『意式濃縮』是一種多相飲品,只需經烘焙並研磨好的咖啡粉和水就能製作。在濃縮的表面覆蓋了一層細小氣泡組成的泡沫層並且表面猶如老虎尾巴上的斑紋一樣的特別的印跡。在泡沫的下面則是伴有乳化了的微小的油滴的顆粒,溶解了糖、酸、類蛋白質、咖啡因,懸浮有氣泡和固體的溶液。
(乳化:一種液體以極微小液滴均勻地分散在互不相溶的另一種液體中的作用。乳化是液-液界面現象,兩種不相溶的液體,如油與水,在容器中分成兩層,密度小的油在上層,密度大的水在下層。若加入適當的表面活性劑在強烈的攪拌下,油被分散在水中,形成乳狀液,該過程叫乳化。)
(相態:也就是物質的狀態(或簡稱相,也叫物態),指一個宏觀物理系統所具有的一組狀態。一個態中的物質擁有單純的化學組成和物理特性(如密度、晶體結構、折射率等)。最常見的物質狀態有固態、液態和氣態,俗稱「物質三態」。)
什麼是crema?爲什麼crema會消失?
咖啡烘焙過程中會發生一系列複雜的化學變化產生大量二氧化碳。大部分二氧化碳在咖啡熟豆的存放過程中會自然排放掉,但仍然會有較多的二氧化碳會殘留在細胞壁內。
9 bar的泵壓相關性最大的就是乳化咖啡中非溶解性的油。其實水壓還有另外一個作用,那就是讓水對二氧化碳呈現超飽和狀態,增大水對二氧化碳的溶解性,從而溶入超出一般自然氣壓下更多倍的二氧化碳。這也就是爲什麼熱水穿過粉餅的時候會形成千上萬的細小氣泡。。
泡沫層的形成需要有氣泡,還有喜歡圍繞在這些氣泡周圍的化合物或微粒以使這些氣泡的結構穩定更有彈性。這些化學成分所起的覆膜作用會涉及到表面活性劑。泡的形成主要與類黑精(melanoidin)有關。類黑精是在咖啡烘焙過程中所形成的一系列化合物的統稱,科學家們對它還知之甚少。
蛋白質和類黑精能夠包覆氣泡的原因是他們有成分與水相排斥——亦稱疏水性。因此他們去接近氣體而非水,由於疏水性最終這些物質被吸附到氣泡上,形成氣泡層。
咖啡裏還存在着其他疏水性物質:脂/油。這裏的油脂是分開來的,是因爲『脂(fat)』是油(oil)的固體形態,在咖啡中是兩種形態並存的。
導致crema消失的原因有油脂/油和重力兩方面。表面活性劑溶解於水中,重力會向下拖拽存於泡沫層的咖啡物質,同時這會拉扯到覆蓋於氣泡表面的物質,導致氣泡變得脆弱和缺乏彈性,最終很快破滅。
泡沫層消失的速度主要取決於重力起作用的快慢。一杯正確萃取的濃縮的表面的泡沫會比一杯萃取不足的濃縮留存更久。這是因爲正確萃取的濃縮其整體構成會更爲厚重,這一點可以通過濃縮在口腔中的觸感來確認。
Crema的顏色:它能告訴我們些什麼?
crema正常萃取情況應該呈現紅棕色,但當濃縮的crema顏色偏淺,或者顏色非常深、近乎焦棕色的時候又說明了什麼呢?答案部分與濃縮本身有關。因爲crema是濃縮中包裹了二氧化碳的氣泡,如果泡沫層看上去顏色很深,那我們通常也能確定濃縮液體的顏色也會很深。
如果想要分辨咖啡液顏色的不同是極爲困難的,除非是用水稀釋後再比較或者是用顯微鏡去觀察。還有另外一個因素需要我們去考慮:泡沫層會對光產生折射。因此泡沫層看上去會比咖啡液本身顏色要來的淺些,而氣泡越細小,這個效果就會被放得更大。綜上所述,就算液體的顏色非常深且厚度也不及濃縮咖啡,但這個液體上面的泡沫層的顏色會顯得非常淡。
製作濃縮咖啡的時候,15秒的萃取時間得到的濃縮咖啡通常會有一層顏色非常淺的crema,這是由於它的萃取不夠充分,水沒有足夠的時間去萃出咖啡中的可溶物質,故而它也不會有可與25秒的萃取時間所製作出的濃縮相比的粘稠度。同樣的原理,過低水溫萃取的濃縮也會呈現出淺色的crema,因爲低溫很難萃出咖啡中的可溶物質。這也從反面證明了過度萃取的濃縮呈現出比正常萃取的濃縮更加深的顏色,並且crema表面還會有焦深色的外圈。
前街咖啡已可在Tmall選購,60種來自世界各地咖啡豆,新鮮烘焙 24H發貨。
Tmall link:https://qianjieshipin.tmall.com
或直接在淘寶搜尋 「前街旗艦店」
2015-11-09 17:13:32 責任編輯:未知
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title | '咖啡豆的世界地圖-帶你認識全球53個咖啡產地' |
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description | '世界上很多地方都有咖啡豆的影子,只要氣候適合,它都能夠正常生長。這些適合培植咖啡豆的地方,通常位於南迴歸線及北迴歸線之間,稱爲咖啡生長帶。 R: 羅布斯塔種咖啡豆 M: 混合種咖啡豆 A: 阿拉比卡種咖啡豆 一。哥斯達黎加咖啡 顆粒飽滿、酸度理想、香味' |
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content | '<div> 世界上很多地方都有咖啡豆的影子,只要氣候適合,它都能夠正常生長。這些適合培植咖啡豆的地方,通常位於南迴歸線及北迴歸線之間,稱爲“咖啡生長帶”。</div> <div> </div> <div> R: 羅布斯塔種咖啡豆</div> <div> </div> <div> M: 混合種咖啡豆</div> <div> </div> <div> A: 阿拉比卡種咖啡豆</div> <div> </div> <div> 一。哥斯達黎加咖啡</div> <div> </div> <div> 顆粒飽滿、酸度理想、香味獨特濃烈</div> <div> </div> <div> 哥斯達黎加的塔拉蘇(Tarrazu)是世界上主要的咖啡產地之一,所產咖啡風味清淡純正,香氣怡人。哥斯達黎加的火山土壤十分肥沃,而且排水性好,是中美洲第一個因商業價值而種植咖啡和香蕉的國家。咖啡和香蕉是該國的主要出口商品。1729年,咖啡從古巴引入哥斯達黎加,時至今日,其咖啡工業已是世界上組織最完善的工業之一,產量高達每公頃1700公斤。哥斯達黎加人口僅有350萬,而咖啡樹卻多達4億顆,咖啡出口額佔據該國出口總額的25%。哥斯達黎加也受益於設立在塔拉蘇的中美洲農業研究學會(Turrialba of the Central American Agricultural Research Institute,簡稱IAAC),它是一個重要的國際研究中心。</div> <div> </div> <div> 優質的哥斯達黎加咖啡被稱爲“特硬豆”,此種咖啡可以在海拔1500米以上生長。海拔高度對於咖啡種植者來說一直都是個問題。海拔越高咖啡豆越好,這不僅是因爲較高海拔能增加咖啡豆的酸度從而增加風味,而且也由於較高海拔處的夜晚溫度低,可使樹木生長緩慢,從而使咖啡豆的風味更濃郁。另外,由於高海拔的落差造成充足的降雨量,對咖啡樹的生長也十分有利。然而,雖然在海拔較高的地帶種植咖啡有諸多優點,但必須考慮到因此而增加的額外運輸費用,這很可能使生產咖啡變得無利可圖。哥斯達黎加的咖啡業已採用新技術來增加效率,其中包括使用“電眼”來選豆並識別出尺寸不規則的咖啡豆。</div> <div> </div> <div> 在哥斯達黎加,人們從牛車上卸下咖啡果 塔拉蘇位於該國首都聖何塞(San José)的南部,它是該國最受重視的咖啡種植地之一。“塔拉蘇拉美他”(La Minita Tarrazu)的咖啡是當地名產,但生產數量有限,大約每年72600公斤,它是一塊叫“拉美他”(La Minita)的土地上種植的,土地爲英國麥卡爾平(McAlpine)家族的最近三代人所有。事實上,這塊土地每年可生產450多噸咖啡。但是塔拉蘇拉美他咖啡的種植並沒有使用人造肥料或滅蟲劑,它的收割和挑選全由手工完成,這樣做的原因是爲避免空氣噴射挑選法在某種程度上對咖啡豆造成的損傷。</div> <div> </div> <div> 值得提及的其他咖啡還有:胡安維那斯(Juan Vinas,PR)、圖爾農(H.Tournon)、危德米爾(Windmill,SHB)、蒙迪貝洛(Monte bello)和聖羅莎(Ssnta Rosa)。上等咖啡一般生長在埃雷迪亞(Geredia)和中部峽谷。另一種引人注目的咖啡是薩奇(Sarchi)咖啡(薩奇正是代表哥斯達黎加“咖啡之路”的5個城鎮之一),它生長在離聖何賽53公里遠的波阿斯火山(Poas Volcano)的山坡上。薩奇公司創立於1949年,其土地面積爲30770公頃,種植甘蔗和咖啡。這一地區還以手工藝品而聞名,吸引着世界各地的遊客。</div> <div> </div> <div> 該國的咖啡工業原來是由哥斯達黎加咖啡工業公司(Instituto del Café de Costa Rica,簡寫ICAFE)控制的,現已經被咖啡官方委員會(Oficina del Café)接管。在出口的咖啡中,那些被認爲質量不合格的產品用藍色植物染料着色後,再轉回國內銷售。在國內消費的咖啡(染成藍色的或未被染色的)大約佔總產量的10%,當地人均咖啡消費是意大利或美國的兩倍。</div> <div> </div> <div> 二。古巴咖啡</div> <div> </div> <div> 如果這個生產上等於雪茄的國家沒有上等的咖啡與之相配,那肯定會令人感到惋惜的</div> <div> </div> <div> 古巴(Cuba)最好的咖啡是圖基諾(Turquino)或特級圖基諾(Extra Turquino)。圖基諾是一個咖啡級別而不是一個地名,正如藍山咖啡(Blue Mountain)一樣。這種咖啡風味純正,顆粒適中,因爲種植在海拔較低的地方,所以其酸度低於種植在中美洲的許多咖啡。</div> <div> </div> <div> 假如不受政治氣候的影響,毫無疑問古巴將成爲美國和日本的咖啡重要供應地。</div> <div> </div> <div> 三。多米尼加</div> <div> </div> <div> 美味香甜,顆粒飽滿的咖啡 多米尼亞共和國(Dominican Republic)與海地爲鄰,二者擁有伊斯帕尼奧拉島(Hispaniola)。像它的鄰居一樣,多米尼加共和國也曾有過革命和貧窮的歷史,但現在已經實行了民主選舉,國家也相對穩定。在18世紀早期,咖啡開始在多米尼加共和國種植,最好的生產地是西南部的巴拉奧納(Barahona)地區,但是洪卡力託(Juncalito)和奧科亞(Ocoa)也出產一種上等的咖啡――聖多明各(Santo Domingo)咖啡,其特點是清新淡雅、顆粒飽滿、酸度極佳、香味怡人,所以物有所值。與海地生產的咖啡不同,多米尼加共和國種植的咖啡大多數都被洗過,這也是高品質的象徵。</div> <div> </div> <div> 四。薩爾瓦多</div> <div> </div> <div> 獨一無二,口味溫和的咖啡。 薩爾瓦多(El Salvador)是中美洲的小國之一,人口十分密集。其咖啡的風味特色是均衡度極好。今天,這種咖啡佔全國出口量的40%。質地最優的咖啡在1月到3月出後35%的特硬豆出口德國。 90年代初,游擊戰爭大大地破壞了該國的國民經濟,使咖啡的產量從70年代初的350萬袋下降到1990~1991年的250萬袋。該國東部受游擊戰爭影響最大,許多農夫和工人,被迫離開莊園。資金短缺致使咖啡產量大跌,由過去的每公頃產量1200公斤下降到今天的每公頃產量不足900公斤。此外,政府1986年對出口咖啡額外收取15%的關稅,即在現存30%的稅收之外再徵收15%。稅收連同不利的互兌率,使咖啡出口極度減少,質量也隨之下降。政府終於認識到咖啡在國民經濟中的巨大作用,例如:解決就業、賺取外匯和發展農業等,因此在1990年把部分咖啡出口工業私有化,希望以此增加咖啡在出口市場中的所得率。在薩爾瓦多地區的庫斯卡巴帕(Cuscacbapa),已打好包裝的咖啡豆即將出口薩爾瓦多的咖啡是中美洲的特產,該地咖啡體輕、芳香、純正、略酸。與危地馬拉和哥斯達黎加一樣,薩爾瓦多的咖啡依據海拔高度進行等級劃分,海拔越高,咖啡越好。最好的品牌是匹普(Pipil),這是阿茲別克――瑪雅人(AztecMayan)對咖啡的稱呼,它已經取得了美國有機物證明學會(Organic Certified Institute of America)的認可。另一種稀有的咖啡是帕克馬拉(Pacamara)咖啡,它是帕卡斯(Pacas)咖啡和馬拉戈日皮(Maragogype)咖啡的雜交品種。該咖啡的最佳產地位於薩爾瓦多西部,同與危地馬拉邊界相近的聖安娜(Santa Ana)相鄰。帕克馬拉咖啡顆粒飽滿,當香味不太濃。</div> <div> </div> <div> 五。瓜德羅普</div> <div> </div> <div> 良好的咖啡生產遭到自然災害的影響加勒比海的這羣島嶼過去是咖啡的重要產地。1789年,500公頃土地上的100多萬棵咖啡樹產量達4000噸,而今天,只有150公頃的土地用於種植咖啡。這一下降的原因可歸於甘蔗和香蕉生產的增加和1996年愛尼斯颶風(Hurricane Ines)對咖啡樹的破壞。政治原因包括1962~1965年進行的土地重新分配,這造成了咖啡生產的巨大損失。與香蕉和甘蔗種植相比,咖啡種植所需的工時更多,而且更需要資金。過去瓜德羅普島(Guadeloupe)是咖啡最好的產地,但現在已不出口咖啡了。博尼菲爾(Bonifieur)被定爲是該地質量最好的咖啡,這是一個咖啡史上曾引以爲榮的名字。</div> <div> </div> <div> 六。危地馬拉</div> <div> </div> <div> 這裏的特硬咖啡豆顆粒飽滿,美味均衡,用其調製的咖啡純正濃郁危地馬拉(Guatemala)咖啡曾享有世界上品質最佳咖啡的聲望,但質量也曾一度下降。然而,令人高興的是其聲望正在逐步挽回。</div> <div> </div> <div> 1750年,傑蘇伊特(Jesuit)神父將咖啡樹引種到危地馬拉,19世紀末德國殖民着發展了此地的咖啡工業。今天,咖啡業的大部分生產都在該國的南部進行。在這裏,馬德雷(Sierra Madre)火山的山坡爲種植上等的咖啡豆提供了理想的條件,高海拔地帶生長的咖啡生機盎然。與其他種類的咖啡相比,品評家更喜歡這種具有香料味道的混合風味咖啡。此地的特硬咖啡豆更是難得一見的好咖啡,它顆粒飽滿,味美可口,酸度均衡。另外,其巨型咖啡豆也使危地馬拉倍受關注。咖啡業曾使該國繁榮,如今仍在國民經濟中佔據着統治地位。但不幸的是,國內的政治情況不利於咖啡種植者。高產量通常是一個國家總體經濟繁榮的標誌。然而,危地馬拉現在的咖啡產量已相對下降,每公頃只有700公斤,而薩爾瓦多的產量爲每公頃900公斤,哥斯達黎加的產量更是驚人,每公頃高達1700公斤。危地馬拉咖啡出口貿易控制在私人公司手中,但國家咖啡委員會(Asociacion Nacional de Cafe)控制着咖啡工業的其他部門。目前危地馬拉一些質地最優的咖啡出口日本,在那裏,每杯咖啡賣到3~4美元。大多數的小規模生產者是瑪雅人(Mayan)的後裔,他們喜歡杯稱爲當地人。目前,他們還受益於一個美國資助的項目,當地人稱之爲“工程(The Project)”的項目,該項目計劃投資250萬美元,鼓勵開辦小型的高品質咖啡種植園。危地馬拉盛產優質咖啡的主要地區是阿蒂特蘭湖(Lake Atitlan)和韋韋特南戈(Huehuentenango)。該項目的目的是幫助克復困擾着世界咖啡業的高產低質的惡性循環。例如,波旁(Bourbon)樹比新型矮樹長得高,且咖啡豆結得少,雖然他們都屬於阿拉伯咖啡品種,但波旁樹產出的咖啡豆更好,也更受美食家的歡迎。這個項目也希望能鼓勵當地生產者自行加工咖啡豆,因爲現在大部分咖啡果賣給了中間商,如果咖啡加工可在當地的工廠進行,那麼其價值甚至質量可能就會得到提高。</div> <div> </div> <div> 安提瓜島(Antigua)也是咖啡的著名產地。安提瓜島的咖啡產於卡馬那莊園(Hacienda Carmona),該處品質最佳的咖啡是愛爾普卡(EL Pulcal)它不僅質量好,而且比危地馬拉的其他咖啡味道更濃郁、口感更豐富、菸草味更重。每隔30年左右,安提瓜島附近地區就要遭受一次火山爆發的侵襲,這給本來就富饒的土地提供了更多的氮,而且充足的降雨和陽光使這個地方更適於種植咖啡。 其他的咖啡產地還有:聖馬科(San Marco)、奧連特-科萬(Oriente & Coban)、帕爾卡(Palcya)、馬塔克斯昆特拉(Mataquescuintia)和位於薩卡帕(Zacapa)的拉曼(La Uman)等。特種咖啡協會的建立意味着危地馬拉政府開始對高品質咖啡予以關注,而爲之作出的努力將會很快取得成效。</div> <div> </div> <div> 七。海地</div> <div> </div> <div> 來自有政治麻煩之國土的上好咖啡儘管存在着衆人皆知的問題,而且咖啡的質量在時好時壞地波動,但海地(Haiti)仍然試圖生產出一些高質量的咖啡。海地生產的大部分咖啡是在純天然的狀態下生長的,這並非有意而是物質短缺的結果,其原因是農民們太窮買不起殺菌劑、除蟲劑和化肥。海地主要的咖啡種植區是該國的北部。與其他國家相比,海地咖啡的品牌、等級和種類更繁多。在日本,海地咖啡被摻入牙買加藍山咖啡中,從而使藍山咖啡味道更加濃郁。海地咖啡顆粒飽滿,風味濃郁,酸度由中到低,口感比較溫和。</div> <div> </div> <div> 八。洪都拉斯</div> <div> </div> <div> 總的來說,洪都拉斯咖啡聲譽頗佳,適用於混合咖啡。洪都拉斯(Honduras)的咖啡是從薩爾瓦多傳入的。洪都拉斯生產高酸性優質咖啡。像其他地方一樣,洪都拉斯的咖啡等級依據海拔高度而定:在海拔700~1000米地帶種植的咖啡屬於中等,海拔1000~1500米地帶種植的咖啡屬於上乘,海拔1500~2000米的咖啡屬於特等。1975年巴西霜凍之後,洪都拉斯的咖啡產量顯著提高,20年內從50萬袋增加到180萬袋。咖啡鏽病(Rust)對該國咖啡是一個很大的危害,尤其是該國東部,鏽病更爲嚴重,而用於治療這種疾病的藥物噴劑則對提高咖啡產量起到了很大的作用。洪都拉斯所有咖啡都由個體運輸商發貨出口,大都出口到美國和德國。</div> <div> </div> <div> 九。牙買加</div> <div> </div> <div> 牙買加藍山咖啡是世界上最好大咖啡嗎?聽說過牙買加(Jamaica)藍山咖啡的人幾乎都知道它是世界上最貴的咖啡,但並不是每個人都知道這是爲什麼。如同勞斯萊斯(Rolls-Royce)汽車和斯特拉迪瓦里製造的小提琴(Stradivarius Violin)一樣,當某種東西獲得“世界上最好”的聲望時,這一聲望往往使它形成了自己的特色,並變成一個永世的神話。最好的藍山咖啡無疑是所能得到的最好的咖啡之一。雖然價格能保證藍山咖啡的供應,但並不能相同地保證該咖啡有最好的風味。還值得注意的是,這中咖啡喝起來要比看上去昂貴。要想品嚐到它最好的風味,所放入的咖啡豆必須比飲用其他咖啡時多,否則風味就有點名不符實,所以體現風味的真正費用就在於它要比價格僅次於它的咖啡多加10%~15%的咖啡豆。據說,真正的藍山咖啡是由當地最好的生咖啡豆製成的,這正是品嚐家的樂趣所在。它的風味濃郁、均衡、富有水果味和酸味,能滿足人們的各種需要。除此之外,優質新鮮的藍山咖啡風味特別持久,就像飲酒人所說的那樣――回味無窮。仔細瞭解一下藍山咖啡的神話是必要的,因爲過去的形象和今天的現實經常不是一致的。1725年,尼古拉勞斯爵士(Sir Nicholas Lawes)將第一批藍山咖啡種從馬提尼克島(Martinique)帶到牙買加,種植在聖安德魯(St.Andrew)地區。今天的聖安德魯產區仍然是藍山咖啡的三大產區之一,其他兩大產區是波特蘭(Portland)產區和聖托馬斯(St..Thomas)產區。8年內,牙買加出口的純正咖啡達375噸多。1932年,咖啡生產達到高峯,收穫的咖啡多達15000多噸。但到1948年,咖啡質量已經下降,加拿大購買商拒絕在續合同,爲此牙買加政府成立了咖啡工業委員會,以挽救頂級咖啡的命運。到1969年,情況得到了改善,因爲利用日本貸款改善了生產質量,從而保證了市場。即使在1969年,日本咖啡飲用者也還願意爲這種咖啡付保險金,而如今,這種咖啡已達到了被狂熱喜愛的地步。到1981年,牙買加又有1500公頃左右的土地被開墾用於種植咖啡,隨後又投資開發了另外6000公頃咖啡地。事實上,今天的藍山地區是一個僅有6000公頃種植面積的小地方,不能所有標有“藍山”字樣的咖啡都在那裏種植。另外的12000公頃土地用於種植其他兩種類型的咖啡(非藍山咖啡):高山頂級咖啡(High Mountain Supreme)和牙買加咖啡(Prime Washed Jamaican)。</div> <div> </div> <div> 真正的藍山咖啡是世界上種植條件最優越的咖啡之一,牙買加的天氣、地質結構和地勢共同提供了得天獨厚的理想場所。橫貫牙買加的山脊一直延伸至小島東部,藍山山脈高達2100米以上。天氣涼爽、多霧、降雨頻繁,使得這方富饒的土地雨水調和。在這裏人們使用混合種植法種植咖啡樹,使之在梯田裏與香蕉樹和鱷梨樹相依相傍。一些小莊園也種植藍山咖啡,如:瓦倫福德莊園(Wallenford Estate)、銀山莊園(Silver Hill Estate)和馬丁內斯(J.Martinez)的亞特蘭大莊園(Atlanta Estate)等。即使是這個地區最大的莊園主,按國際標準來算,也屬於小規模種植,其中許多莊園主是小土地擁有者,他們的家族已經在這塊土地上勞作了兩個世紀。牙買加的咖啡業面臨着一系列的問題,比如:颶風的影響,勞作費用的增加和梯田難於進行機械化作業等。許多小莊園和農場很難進行合理化種植。然而,藍山咖啡是那些重視信譽的咖啡零售商不論怎麼樣都要庫存一些的咖啡。英國一位主要零售商說:不管價格如何,他將持續不斷地全年出售藍山咖啡,因爲他有許多隻認“藍山”的顧客。現在,收穫後的藍山咖啡90%爲日本人所購買。在1992年,牙買加賣給日本688噸藍山咖啡,賣給美國75噸,賣給英國59噸。現在由於世界其他地方只能獲得藍山咖啡產量的10%,因此不管價格高低,藍山咖啡總是供不應求。在英國,很多年來,朗福德兄弟(Langford Brothers)公司是唯一的供應商。後來埃德蒙茲集團(Edmonds Group)也得到了牙買加薩爾達食品公司(Salda Foods)提供貨源。</div> <div> </div> <div> 藍山咖啡與其他咖啡在運輸方面的區別是,它用容量70公斤的木桶運輸,這是瓜德羅普島上個世紀所生產的博尼菲爾(Bonifieur)木桶的仿製品。這種木桶最初用於裝載從英國運往牙買加的麪粉,通常帶有商標名和生產廠家的名稱。咖啡業委員會爲所有的純正牙買加咖啡發放證書,並在出口前蓋上認可章。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十。馬提尼克島</div> <div> </div> <div> 美洲咖啡的搖籃</div> <div> </div> <div> 馬提尼克島(Martinique)是個小島,也是中美洲咖啡的發源地,但是它今天的咖啡產量卻很少。西半球的第一棵咖啡樹是在18世紀20年代初由德克利(Gabriel Mathieu de Clieu)從法國帶來的。德克利早年是馬提尼克島的海軍軍官,他帶回一棵咖啡樹,把它栽種在普里切(Prechear),第一次收成是在1726年。隨後,咖啡從馬提尼克島又傳入海地、多米尼加共和國和瓜德羅普島。據記載,1777年馬提尼克島的咖啡樹就達18791680棵。</div> <div> </div> <div> 馬提尼克島上的咖啡樹見證了一個產業的成長及毀滅的歷史。今天該島主要出口香蕉、甘蔗和菠蘿。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十一。墨西哥</div> <div> </div> <div> 來自世界第四大咖啡生產國的咖啡,幼滑而芳香世界上第四大咖啡生產地墨西哥,年產咖啡約500萬袋。其大部分咖啡是由近10萬戶的小耕農生產的,曾經操縱咖啡業的大莊園已不多見了。墨西哥咖啡每公頃產量爲630公斤左右。後來墨西哥咖啡協會(Instituto Mexicano del Café,簡稱Inmecafe)控制了咖啡業。咖啡協會即控制着咖啡種植,也控制着11月起就可出口的咖啡豆的市場。協會爲農民提供最低收購價格、技術建議和其他幫助。但從1991年起,咖啡協會的活動已有所減少,它的職能還可能進一步減弱。</div> <div> </div> <div> 咖啡協議(Coffee Agreement)的瓦解和價格支持的消失,實際上是幫助了一些生產者,因爲這迫使他們發展各自的品牌,並取得與國外市場更緊密的聯繫,而加拿大、美國和墨西哥之間的NAFTA協議將進一步幫助墨西哥產品出口到北美.。一些人認爲最好的巨型咖啡豆產於墨西哥而不是產於危地馬拉,但兩地咖啡豆的供應和質量都可能變化,被稱爲馬拉戈日皮(Maragogype)的咖啡豆顆粒大,所產咖啡柔滑、醇厚、芳香誘人。農民的貧窮造成了大多數咖啡靠自然條件生長,即:不使用除蟲劑或化肥等化學制劑。墨西哥最好的咖啡產地是該國南部的恰帕斯(Chiapas),這裏種植的咖啡品種包括塔潘楚拉(Tapanchula)和維斯特拉(Huixtla)。瓦哈卡(Oaxaca)地區也出產上等咖啡豆,靠自然條件生長的普盧馬科伊斯特派克(Pluma Coixtepec)咖啡豆是其中極品。瓦哈卡地區還出產阿爾圖拉奧里薩巴(Altura Orizaba)咖啡和阿爾圖拉瓦圖斯科(Altura Huatusco)咖啡。阿爾圖拉科阿塔派克(Altura Coatapec)地區出產韋拉克魯斯(Veracruz)咖啡。墨西哥最好的巨型咖啡豆是利基丹巴爾(Liquidambar MS)咖啡豆。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十二。尼加拉瓜</div> <div> </div> <div> 極佳的尼加拉瓜咖啡在世界上位居前列,它溫和可口,顆粒適中,十分芳香。在許多國家,由於政治原因,咖啡生產受到嚴重影響。尼加拉瓜咖啡業也不例外。1979年的革命使咖啡種植園主被迫逃往邁阿蜜(Miami)。隨後是一段舉棋不定的日子,政府曾考慮是否重新分配土地(其中包括許多種植園),這樣就導致了咖啡供應不足,產量下降,由70年代初的100多萬袋降到1990年的不足60萬袋。現在政府已開放咖啡業,私人業主掌握了市場。上乘的尼加拉瓜咖啡種植在該國的北部和中部,最好的咖啡產於馬塔加爾帕(Matagalpa)的西諾特加(Jinotega)和新塞哥維亞(Nuevo Segovia)。上乘的尼加拉瓜咖啡歸入中埃斯特里克塔曼特阿爾圖拉(Central Estrictamendte Altura)咖啡類,它酸度適中,芳香可口,十分令人喜愛。質量較差的咖啡豆則被廣泛用於混合咖啡。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十三。巴拿馬</div> <div> </div> <div> 高地種植的咖啡絕對優質,唯種植園咖啡還沒有上市。</div> <div> </div> <div> 巴拿馬(Panama)咖啡很柔滑、重量輕而且酸味均衡,其優質咖啡豆風味純正、極富特色。每年出口的第一批咖啡在11月份啓運,幾乎全部優質咖啡豆都運往法國和芬蘭。</div> <div> </div> <div> 上等的咖啡種植在該國北部,即靠近哥斯達黎加、臨近太平洋一帶。奇裏基(Chiriqui)省博克特(Boquet)區生產的咖啡很有名,其他地區則有大衛(David)區,瑞馬西門圖(Remacimeinto)區、布加巴(Bugaba)區和託萊(Tole)區。</div> <div> </div> <div> 被品評家們認可的博爾坎巴魯咖啡(Café Volcan Baru)勢頭看好,該咖啡品質特佳,1994年的產量達2000袋,佔全國總產量的1%。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十四。波多黎各</div> <div> </div> <div> 堯科特選咖啡是世間極品</div> <div> </div> <div> 1736年,咖啡樹就從馬提尼克引入波多黎各(Puertp Rico)。早期的咖啡大都是由科西嘉(Corsica)移民種植的。到1896年,波多黎各咖啡出口量在世界上佔第六位,大多數咖啡運往法國、意大利、西班牙和古巴。19世紀咖啡莊園一度繁榮,但是甘蔗與藥物種植業的興起以及颶風侵襲和戰爭的影響又使咖啡業滯後不前,目前正在復甦。</div> <div> </div> <div> 波多黎各實行低工資制,1991年人均小時工資爲4.20美元。儘管如此,其體力勞動者的收入還是比其他許多咖啡生產國勞動者的收入高,只要夏威夷和牙買加與之相當。波多黎各咖啡業所面臨的另一個問題是:在加勒比海地區,波多黎各人文化素質相對較高,因此有較好的就業前景。堯科特選咖啡僅在該島國西南部的三個農場種植,其口味芳香濃烈,飲後回味悠長。這種咖啡售價很高,香味可與世上其他任何咖啡品種相媲美。在堯科(Yauco)地區,該咖啡歸當地的種植園主擁有並經營。這裏的山區氣候溫和,植物有較長的成熟期(從10月到次年2月),土質爲優質粘土。這裏種植一些老品種的阿拉伯咖啡豆,儘管產量較其他品種低,但普遍優質。這裏的人們一直採用一種保護生態、精耕細作的種植方法,只使用一些低毒的化肥和化學藥劑,並採取混合作物種植措施,從而使土壤更加肥沃。到了採摘咖啡豆的時候,人們在咖啡樹間來回穿行,只採摘完全成熟的咖啡豆,然後還要將它們放入滾筒式裝置中洗上48小時。</div> <div> </div> <div> 今天,波多黎各的美食咖啡已出口到美國、法國和日本。該國咖啡一般都精心種植,味純、芳香、顆粒重、其中極品更居於世界名牌之列。最上乘的咖啡是堯科特選(Yauco Selecto),“Selecto”即“挑選”之意。大拉雷斯堯科咖啡(Grand Lares Yauco)出產於該島的西南部,拉雷斯咖啡出產於中南部。</div> <div> </div> <div> 堯科特選咖啡僅在該島國西南部的三個農場種植,其口味芳香濃烈,飲後回味悠長。這種咖啡售價很高,香味可與世上其他任何咖啡品種相媲美。在堯科(Yauco)地區,該咖啡歸當地的種植園主擁有並經營。這裏的山區氣候溫和,植物有較長的成熟期(從10月到次年2月),土質爲優質粘土。這裏種植一些老品種的阿拉伯咖啡豆,儘管產量較其他品種低,但普遍優質。這裏的人們一直採用一種保護生態、精耕細作的種植方法,只使用一些低毒的化肥和化學藥劑,並採取混合作物種植措施,從而使土壤更加肥沃。到了採摘咖啡豆的時候,人們在咖啡樹間來回穿行,只採摘完全成熟的咖啡豆,然後還要將它們放入滾筒式裝置中洗上48小時。</div> <div> </div> <div> 堯科特選咖啡豆在運售之前一直是帶殼保存的,直到訂貨發運時纔將外皮去掉,以確保咖啡的最佳新鮮度。在貨物提交時,美國政府的相關工作人員,如FDA和USEA,也會在場,他們的工作時監督生產者是否遵守了聯邦法令。還有些來自地方鑑評委員會的工作人員,他們從每50袋中抽取1袋作爲樣品,並使用國際量器對其進行品質鑑定。</div> <div> </div> <div> 埃斯科基多•堯科(Escogido Yauco)代理行的總裁――福爾圖諾(Jaime Fortuńo)每年都會默默地關注這一切工作,甚至極微小的細節。福爾圖諾是投資銀行家,畢業於哈佛商學院。他當初決意抓住一切機會開闢出一個波多黎各頂級咖啡市場。他預計每年最高產量3000袋,每袋45公斤,這還不到全島咖啡總產量的的1%。</div> <div> </div> <div> 堯科特選是令人着迷的咖啡,它風味俱全,無苦味,富含營養,果味濃郁,值得品味。就連在英國哈羅蓋特市(Harrogate)的泰勒斯(Taylors)也曾進口過50袋堯科特選咖啡。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十五。玻利維亞</div> <div> </div> <div> 過去玻利維亞的咖啡樹常種在花園的周圍充當樹籬,起花木裝飾作用。真正的商業生產從20世紀50年代早期纔開始。1957年的大霜凍嚴重地損害了巴西的咖啡業,而玻利維亞(Bolivia)卻從中受益,迅速發展起來。玻利維亞咖啡在海拔180~670米的高處種植,其中的阿拉伯水洗咖啡豆出口到德國和瑞典,其味道並非當今最好的,而且帶點苦味。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十六。巴西</div> <div> </div> <div> 巴西被形象地比喻爲咖啡世界的“巨人”和“君主”。那兒大約有39億7千萬棵咖啡樹,小農場主們現在種植的咖啡佔全國總產量的75%。巴西從事咖啡生產的人數是哥倫比亞的2倍甚至3倍,而哥倫比亞是世界上第二大咖啡生產國。</div> <div> </div> <div> 與以往不同的是,巴西現在的經濟較少依賴咖啡,咖啡僅佔國民生產總值的8%~10%。在二戰前,巴西咖啡總產量佔全世界的50%甚至更多,現在接近30%,但是該國對全世界咖啡的影響,尤其是對咖啡價格的影響,卻是舉足輕重的,例如1994年的兩次霜害就曾引起全球咖啡價格的暴漲。自1720年從法屬圭亞那(Guyana)引進咖啡樹以來,咖啡生產逐漸變成一門科學。1990年前,巴西政府對咖啡業進行嚴格的監控,既有嚴厲的干涉又有價格保護措施,而且國家一直對農民實行最低價格保護措施,以至造成咖啡生產過剩。二戰前一段時間,剩餘存貨多達7800萬袋,後來不得不將其用火燒掉或投入水中毀掉。自1990年以來自由市場開放,原來的“巴西咖啡管理局”(IBC)被國家的非投資行政機構――國家經濟協會取代,該協會奉行不干涉政策,允許生產者與出口商直接洽談。出口商的經營活動由政府立法監督,有關部門對合法的出口商予以登記。</div> <div> </div> <div> 由於巴西咖啡種類繁多,不能只用“巴西咖啡”(Brazilian)一詞便囊而括之。正如其他阿拉伯咖啡一樣,巴西咖啡被成爲“Brazils”以區別於“Milds”咖啡。絕大多數巴西咖啡未經清洗而且是曬乾的,它們根據產地州名和運輸港進行分類。巴西有21個州,17個州出產咖啡,但其中有4個州的產量最大,加起來佔全國總產量的98%,它們是:巴拉那(Parana)州、聖保羅(Sao Paulo)州、米拉斯吉拉斯(Minas Gerais)州和聖埃斯皮裏圖(Espirito Santo)州,南部巴拉那州的產量最爲驚人,佔總產量的50%。</div> <div> </div> <div> 雖然咖啡具有多樣性,但巴西咖啡卻適合大衆的口味。比如:北部沿海地區生產的咖啡具有典型的碘味,飲後使人聯想到大海。這種咖啡出口到北美、中東和東歐。</div> <div> </div> <div> 還有一種頗具情趣且值得追尋的咖啡是沖洗過的巴伊亞(Bahia)咖啡。這種咖啡不太容易找到,因爲繼美國之後,巴西是世界上最大的咖啡消費國,許多上好的咖啡只在其國內市場才能尋覓到。</div> <div> </div> <div> 在巴西,產量最大的是羅百氏特咖啡。這種咖啡在超級市場出售。巴西羅百氏特咖啡以科尼倫(Conillon)的名字出售,佔總產量的15%。</div> <div> </div> <div> 在巴西東南部米拉斯(Minas Greais)州塞拉多(Cerrado)區的一些莊園裏種植着古老的波旁咖啡。這些莊園,如卡平布蘭科(Capin Branco)莊園和維斯塔阿萊格爾(Vista Allegre)莊園,種植的波旁老品種咖啡也在市上出售。雖然出自同一個地區,但這些咖啡各具特色。卡平布蘭科咖啡比維斯塔阿萊格爾咖啡口感更柔滑,而維斯塔阿萊格爾咖啡濃且黑色,兩者酸度較低。可是,像所有的巴西咖啡一樣,它們最適於鮮嫩的時候飲用,因爲越老酸度越濃。這些咖啡種植者已自行組織成巴西特種咖啡協會(the Speciality Coffee Association of Brazil)。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十七。厄瓜多爾</div> <div> </div> <div> 可能是世界上海拔最高的阿拉伯咖啡種植國。</div> <div> </div> <div> 阿拉伯咖啡樹於1952年首次引入厄瓜多爾(Ecuador),其咖啡質量很好,特別是6月初收穫的咖啡。厄瓜多爾咖啡豆可分爲加拉帕戈斯(Galapagos)和希甘特(Gigante)兩個品種,都有顆粒大、份量重的特點。厄瓜爾咖啡按質量可分爲一等(No。1)和特優(Extra Superior)兩種。它們主要出口到斯堪的納維亞半島的北歐國家。</div> <div> </div> <div> 咖啡生產者面臨的主要問題是努力保持質量穩定。該地的咖啡總的來說口味非常均衡清爽,還有一種獨特的香味。</div> <div> </div> <div> 厄瓜多爾是南美洲中既出產阿拉伯咖啡又出產羅百氏特咖啡的少數國家之一。但是由於適於阿拉伯咖啡樹生長的土地在減少,因而羅百氏特咖啡的產量在逐漸增加。最好的阿拉伯咖啡出產於安第斯山,特別是昌查古山谷(Chanchamgo Valley),安第斯山分成兩列山脈,從南向北延伸,直抵厄瓜多爾中部</div> <div> </div> <div> 十八。哥倫比亞</div> <div> </div> <div> 世界上優質咖啡的最大生產國!</div> <div> </div> <div> 傳統的深度烘烤咖啡具有濃烈而值得懷念的味道</div> <div> </div> <div> 1808年,咖啡首次引入哥倫比亞(Colombia),那是由一名牧師從法屬安的列斯(Antilles)經委內瑞拉帶來的。今天該國是繼巴西后的第二大生產國,年產量1300萬袋,每袋60公斤,而巴西的得產量是2200萬袋。咖啡在哥倫比亞的地位從以下事例中可見一斑——所有進入該國的車輛都必須噴霧消毒,以免無意中帶來疾病,損害咖啡樹。</div> <div> </div> <div> 哥倫比亞咖啡是少數冠以國名在世界上出售的原味咖啡之一。在質量方面,它獲得了其他咖啡無法企及的讚譽。該國是世上最大的阿拉伯咖啡豆出口國,而羅百氏特咖啡卻很少種植。它也是世界上最大的水洗咖啡豆(Washed beans)出口國。與其他生產國相比,哥倫比亞更關心開發產品和促進生產。正是這一點再加上其優越的地理條件和氣候條件,使得哥倫比亞咖啡質優味美,譽滿全球。</div> <div> </div> <div> 該國的咖啡生產區位於安第斯(Andes)山麓,那裏氣候溫和,空氣潮溼。哥倫比亞有三條科迪耶拉(Cordilleras)山脈(次山系)南北向縱貫,正好伸向安第斯山。沿着這些山脈的高地種植着咖啡。山階提供了多樣性氣候,這意味着整年都是收穫季節,在不同時期不同種類的咖啡相繼成熟。而且幸運的是,哥倫比亞不像巴西,它不必擔心霜害。哥倫比亞大約有27億株咖啡樹,其中66% 以現代化栽植方式種植在種植園內,其餘的種植在傳統經營的小型農場裏。</div> <div> </div> <div> 20世紀60年代早期咖啡每公頃約產600公斤,現在已提高到900公斤左右,個別農場能達到2500公斤。然而,保證質量是咖啡業的首要問題。哥倫比亞在1927年成立了國家咖啡管理協會(Federacion Nacional de Cafeteros,簡稱FNC),負責質量監管。雖然該協會屬私營公司,但它代表政府行事。該協會除負責組織該行業之外,還負責在豐收的年份籌儲資金。過去幾年裏,咖啡價格趨於下跌,該協會也幾乎用盡了資金儲備。國家咖啡管理協會還肩負着保健、教育、築路、僱用種植技術員、進行調查、監管產品質量、直接經辦總出口量50%出口業務、僱用市場營銷人員等職責。像肯尼亞的國家咖啡管理協會一樣,它是咖啡組織的典範。</div> <div> </div> <div> 哥倫比亞種植咖啡的農場主可以按官方低價將所有的產品賣給咖啡管理協會,也可以賣給出口商,出口商可能提供較高的價格,或根本不出價。實際上,咖啡管理協會(FNC)控制了對歐洲的出口,而出口美國的咖啡主要是通過私人出口商進行的。然而,所有的出口都受制於最低出口價。</div> <div> </div> <div> 哥倫比亞有幸擁有大西洋港口和太平洋港口,這有助於降低咖啡的運輸費用,在南美,它是唯一具備該條件的國家。哥倫比亞的主要生產地區處在中部山脈和東部山脈地帶。沿着中部山脈分佈的最重要種植園位於麥德林(Medellin) 、阿爾梅尼亞(Armenia)和馬尼薩萊斯(Manizales)地區,在上述三個地區中,麥德林地區的咖啡質量最佳,售價也高,其特點是:顆粒飽滿、營養豐富、香味濃郁、酸度適中。這三個地區合真情爲簡稱MAM(是三個地區主要城市名稱的首字母)。在供出口的哥倫比亞頂級咖啡中,大多數的產地是MAM。沿着東部山脈,兩個最好的地區是在波哥大(Bogotá周圍,再向北在布卡拉曼加(Bucaramanga)周圍。波哥大咖啡比麥德林咖啡酸度低,但兩者質量相當。</div> <div> </div> <div> 德國進口量佔哥倫比亞全部出口的25%,這也從一個側面反映了該國的質量過硬。咖啡等級分爲頂級(Supremo),優秀(Excelso)和極品(UGQ, Unusual Good Quality)三等,優秀等級中的克羅斯(Klauss)咖啡出口到德國,歐羅巴(Europa)咖啡出口到北歐國家。在多數咖啡店都能買到優秀等級的咖啡和頂級咖啡。二者的專業規定區別爲:頂級咖啡所用的咖啡豆較大,其原料取自於新收穫的咖啡豆,這樣更容易保證產品的質量。優秀等級咖啡通常比頂級咖啡口感柔和,酸度也略高,但二者均屬芳香型咖啡,顆粒適中,果實優良。哥倫比亞咖啡經常被描述爲具有絲一般柔滑的口感,在所有的咖啡中,它的均衡度最好,口感綿軟、柔滑,可以隨時飲用。</div> <div> </div> <div> 哥倫比亞咖啡種植者所面臨的棘手問題:是否用生長快速且產量高的阿拉伯咖啡樹來替代波旁咖啡樹。有人說,質量會不如從前,但也有人說,在最適合咖啡生長的地方,其質量區別不會太大。</div> <div> </div> <div> 十九。祕魯</div> <div> </div> <div> 咖啡優質均衡,可以用於混合飲品。</div> <div> </div> <div> 祕魯(Peru)也是咖啡生產的大戶。多達98%的祕魯咖啡種植在森林地區,大多數生產者都是小農業主。</div> <div> </div> <div> 祕魯具有良好的經濟條件和穩定的政治局勢,從而保證了咖啡的優良品質。然而局部地方問題較多,除了游擊戰爭和販毒外,於20世紀90年代中期在沿海出現的霍亂進一步造成了經濟蕭條,更有甚者,年通貨膨脹率曾達7000%。</div> <div> </div> <div> 在20世紀70年代中期,祕魯咖啡年產量約爲90萬袋,後來又連續穩定增長到年產130萬袋左右。雖然有私營出口商通過中間人收購偏遠地區的咖啡,但是主要市場仍由政府壟斷。後來私營的祕魯咖啡出口商會(Comera de Exportadores de Café del Peru)成產了,該商會致力於咖啡質量的提高,其首要任務是確定標準、剔除劣品,從而開成一種質量至上的氛圍。這一積極的舉措預示着咖啡業光明的未來。之後,由於價格上揚,也鼓勵了農夫積極種植咖啡而不是該地區的傳統經濟作物――可可。</div> <div> </div> <div> 祕魯最優質的咖啡產於查西馬約(Chanchmayo) 、庫斯科(Cuzco) 、諾特(Norte)和普諾(Puno)。大部分祕魯咖啡是在自然條件下種植的,但也很難確認所有咖啡樹的種植狀況。自然條件下種植的咖啡,其要價比其他高出10%~20%,從貧困狀況來看,農夫們也很可能無錢買化肥和農藥,然而想確證全部的咖啡確實很難。</div> <div> </div> <div> 祕魯咖啡的質量可與中美或南美的任何一種咖啡相媲美。祕魯所出產的優質咖啡被運到德國進行混合,然後再運往日本和美國,這也從另一個方面說明了其質量的高標準。</div> <div> </div> <div> 二十。加拉帕戈斯羣島</div> <div> </div> <div> 咖啡種植在聖克里斯托瓦爾(Saint Crstóbal)。聖克里斯托瓦爾是加拉帕戈斯羣島(Galapagos Islands)中一個較大的島嶼,也是該羣島中唯一一個淡水充足的島嶼。在該島海拔410米的地方有一個叫作埃爾洪科(El.Junco)的小湖,湖水形成數條溪流順着該該島南坡的岩石和火山岩流淌,含有豐富礦物質的淡水滋潤着聖克里斯托瓦爾的土地,使這裏的土壤永保溼潤和肥沃。</div> <div> </div> <div> 在1875年,厄瓜爾土著科沃斯(Maňuel J.Cobos)在聖克里斯托瓦爾的哈森達咖啡園(Hacienda El Cafetal)種植了約100公頃的阿拉伯波旁咖啡樹。種植園的海拔在140-275米之間,該地區的氣候相當於內陸910-1830米間的氣候,這樣梯度的地勢很適合高酸度的特硬咖啡豆(SHB)生長,也是咖啡質量上乘的關鍵。</div> <div> </div> <div> 由於世界咖啡業正朝着定向批量生產模式發展,所以聖克里斯托瓦爾這種規模較小且質量難保的咖啡業便陷入了困境,最終很可能無利可圖而被迫放棄。</div> <div> </div> <div> 然而在20世紀90年代初,岡薩雷斯(Gonzalez)家族買下了哈森達咖啡園。亨博爾特海流(Humboldt Current)造成的局部小氣候,強烈的赤道陽光和急劇的溫度變化(海平面溫度爲43℃,海拔275米的溫度爲10~16℃)提供了得天獨厚的有利條件,促使岡薩雷斯家族擴大了咖啡種植園。</div> <div> </div> <div> 此後,通過對早期土地的開墾,該咖啡種植園的面積又擴大了一倍。由於加拉帕戈斯羣島在歷史進程中的獨特作用,厄瓜多爾政府已把該羣島闢爲國家公園,不再充許將土地開墾爲新的農業用地,而且嚴禁引進和使用化肥、殺蟲劑、除草劑和其它化學制劑,因此加拉帕戈斯羣島的咖啡被公認爲天然產品。<br /> <img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/160612/3-160612105F3Q6.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 348px;" /></div> ' |
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'category' => 'category.html', 'search' => 'search.html', 'show' => 'show.html', ), 'cat_field' => '', 'module_field' => '', 'html' => 0, ), 'displayorder' => '0', 'acount' => '48', 'namerule' => '{typedir}/{Y}{M}{D}{aid}.html', 'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html', 'mid' => 'article', 'pcatpost' => 1, 'topid' => '4', 'domain' => '', 'catids' => array ( 0 => '665', ), 'is_post' => 1, 'mobile_domain' => '', 'tid' => 1, 'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-fangdankafei.html', 'total' => 48, 'field' => array ( ), ), 666 => array ( 'id' => '666', 'pid' => '4', 'pids' => '0,4', 'name' => '馥芮白', 'dirname' => 'furuibai', 'pdirname' => 'kafeizhishi/', 'child' => 0, 'childids' => 666, 'thumb' => '', 'show' => '1', 'setting' => array ( 'edit' => 1, 'disabled' => 0, 'getchild' => 1, 'linkurl' => '', 'urlrule' => 3, 'seo' => array ( 'list_title' => '馥芮白_星巴克馥芮白_Flat White', 'list_keywords' => '', 'list_description' => 'Flat White 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urlrule | '/views-62157-[page].html' |
fix_html_now_url | '' |
my_web_url | 'https://gafei.com/views-62157' |
get | array ( 's' => 'article', 'c' => 'show', 'id' => '62157', 'm' => 'index', ) |
App.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/App.php |
Autoload.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Autoload.php |
Cache.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Cache.php |
Cache.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Cache.php |
CodeIgniter.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Extend/CodeIgniter.php |
Constants.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Constants.php |
Content.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Model/Content.php |
ContentSecurityPolicy.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/ContentSecurityPolicy.php |
Cookie.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Cookie.php |
Database.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Database.php |
Date.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Field/Date.php |
Exceptions.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Exceptions.php |
Exceptions.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Extend/Exceptions.php |
Field.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Field.php |
File.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Field/File.php |
Filters.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Filters.php |
Helper.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Core/Helper.php |
Hooks.php | FCPATH/App/Bdts/Config/Hooks.php |
Hooks.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Core/Hooks.php |
Init.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Init.php |
Input.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Input.php |
Kint.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Kint.php |
Lang.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Lang.php |
Logger.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Logger.php |
Member.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Model/Member.php |
Model.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Core/Model.php |
Module.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Extend/Home/Module.php |
Modules.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Modules.php |
Paths.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Paths.php |
Phpcmf.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Core/Phpcmf.php |
Request.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Extend/Request.php |
Router.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Router.php |
Router.php | FCPATH/My/Library/Router.php |
Routes.php | APPPATH/Config/Routes.php |
Routes.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Routes.php |
Security.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Security.php |
Seo.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Library/Seo.php |
Service.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Core/Service.php |
Services.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Services.php |
Show.php | APPPATH/Controllers/Show.php |
Text.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Field/Text.php |
Textarea.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Field/Textarea.php |
Toolbar.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/Toolbar.php |
Ueditor.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Field/Ueditor.php |
UserAgents.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/UserAgents.php |
Version.php | FCPATH/My/Config/Version.php |
View.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Config/View.php |
View.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Core/View.php |
View.php | FCPATH/Fcms/Extend/View.php |
_data_web_hk.gafei.com_xunruicms_template_pc_hk_gafei_home_new_recommend_1.htm.cache.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/template/_data_web_hk.gafei.com_xunruicms_template_pc_hk_gafei_home_new_recommend_1.htm.cache.php |
_data_web_hk.gafei.com_xunruicms_template_pc_hk_gafei_home_new_recommend_2.htm.cache.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/template/_data_web_hk.gafei.com_xunruicms_template_pc_hk_gafei_home_new_recommend_2.htm.cache.php |
_data_web_hk.gafei.com_xunruicms_template_pc_hk_gafei_home_show.html.cache.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/template/_data_web_hk.gafei.com_xunruicms_template_pc_hk_gafei_home_show.html.cache.php |
cache.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/config/cache.php |
custom.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/config/custom.php |
database.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/config/database.php |
domain_app.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/config/domain_app.php |
domain_client.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/config/domain_client.php |
hooks.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/config/hooks.php |
index.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/hk/index.php |
lang.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/hk/api/language/zh-cn/lang.php |
memcached.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/config/memcached.php |
redis.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/config/redis.php |
rewrite.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/config/rewrite.php |
site.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/config/site.php |
system.php | /data/web/hk.gafei.com/xunruicms/cache/config/system.php |
AutoloadConfig.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/AutoloadConfig.php |
Autoloader.php | SYSTEMPATH/Autoloader/Autoloader.php |
BaseBuilder.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/BaseBuilder.php |
BaseCollector.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/BaseCollector.php |
BaseConfig.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/BaseConfig.php |
BaseConnection.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/BaseConnection.php |
BaseHandler.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cache/Handlers/BaseHandler.php |
BaseResult.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/BaseResult.php |
BaseService.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/BaseService.php |
Builder.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/MySQLi/Builder.php |
CacheFactory.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cache/CacheFactory.php |
CacheInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cache/CacheInterface.php |
CliRenderer.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/Renderer/CliRenderer.php |
CloneableCookieInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cookie/CloneableCookieInterface.php |
CodeIgniter.php | SYSTEMPATH/CodeIgniter.php |
Common.php | SYSTEMPATH/Common.php |
Config.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/Config.php |
Config.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/Config.php |
Connection.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/MySQLi/Connection.php |
ConnectionInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/ConnectionInterface.php |
ContentSecurityPolicy.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/ContentSecurityPolicy.php |
Controller.php | SYSTEMPATH/Controller.php |
Cookie.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cookie/Cookie.php |
CookieInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cookie/CookieInterface.php |
CookieStore.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cookie/CookieStore.php |
Database.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/Database.php |
Database.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Database.php |
DebugToolbar.php | SYSTEMPATH/Filters/DebugToolbar.php |
DotEnv.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/DotEnv.php |
Escaper.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Escaper/Escaper.php |
Events.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Events.php |
Events.php | SYSTEMPATH/Events/Events.php |
Exceptions.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Exceptions.php |
Factories.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/Factories.php |
Factory.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/Factory.php |
FileLocator.php | SYSTEMPATH/Autoloader/FileLocator.php |
Files.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Files.php |
FilterInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Filters/FilterInterface.php |
Filters.php | SYSTEMPATH/Filters/Filters.php |
Header.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/Header.php |
IncomingRequest.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/IncomingRequest.php |
Kint.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/Kint.php |
Logger.php | SYSTEMPATH/Log/Logger.php |
LoggerInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/PSR/Log/LoggerInterface.php |
Logs.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Logs.php |
Message.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/Message.php |
MessageInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/MessageInterface.php |
MessageTrait.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/MessageTrait.php |
Modules.php | SYSTEMPATH/Modules/Modules.php |
Query.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/Query.php |
QueryInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/QueryInterface.php |
RedisHandler.php | SYSTEMPATH/Cache/Handlers/RedisHandler.php |
Renderer.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/Renderer/Renderer.php |
RendererInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/View/RendererInterface.php |
Request.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/Request.php |
RequestInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/RequestInterface.php |
RequestTrait.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/RequestTrait.php |
Response.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/Response.php |
ResponseInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/ResponseInterface.php |
ResponseTrait.php | SYSTEMPATH/API/ResponseTrait.php |
ResponseTrait.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/ResponseTrait.php |
Result.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/MySQLi/Result.php |
ResultInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Database/ResultInterface.php |
RichRenderer.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/Renderer/RichRenderer.php |
RouteCollection.php | SYSTEMPATH/Router/RouteCollection.php |
RouteCollectionInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Router/RouteCollectionInterface.php |
Router.php | SYSTEMPATH/Router/Router.php |
RouterInterface.php | SYSTEMPATH/Router/RouterInterface.php |
Routes.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/Routes.php |
Routes.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Routes.php |
Services.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/Services.php |
TextRenderer.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/Renderer/TextRenderer.php |
Timer.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Timer.php |
Timers.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Timers.php |
Toolbar.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar.php |
URI.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/URI.php |
UserAgent.php | SYSTEMPATH/HTTP/UserAgent.php |
Utils.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/Utils.php |
View.php | SYSTEMPATH/Config/View.php |
View.php | SYSTEMPATH/View/View.php |
Views.php | SYSTEMPATH/Debug/Toolbar/Collectors/Views.php |
init.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/init.php |
init_helpers.php | SYSTEMPATH/ThirdParty/Kint/init_helpers.php |
url_helper.php | SYSTEMPATH/Helpers/url_helper.php |
Directory: | |
Controller: | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show |
Method: | index |
Params: | 0 / 0 |
Method | Route | Handler |
---|---|---|
GET | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
HEAD | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
POST | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
PUT | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
DELETE | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
OPTIONS | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
TRACE | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
CONNECT | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
CLI | migrations/([^/]+)/([^/]+) | \CodeIgniter\Commands\MigrationsCommand::$1/$2 |
CLI | migrations/([^/]+) | \CodeIgniter\Commands\MigrationsCommand::$1 |
CLI | migrations | \CodeIgniter\Commands\MigrationsCommand::index |
CLI | ci(.*) | \CodeIgniter\CLI\CommandRunner::index/$1 |
CLI | / | \Phpcmf\Controllers\Show::index |
Time | Event Name | Times Called |
---|---|---|
10.95 ms | pre_system | 1 |
0.23 ms | dbquery | 9 |
Action | Datetime | Status | Method | URL | Content-Type | Is AJAX? |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2025-04-14 01:50:11 | 200 | GET | https://gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:50:09 | 200 | GET | https://www.m.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:50:00 | 200 | GET | https://madmin.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:49:47 | 200 | GET | https://w.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:49:30 | 200 | GET | https://coffeetec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:49:29 | 200 | GET | https://coffeetec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:49:17 | 200 | GET | https://tklrhkltvnjmkcummn.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:49:11 | 200 | GET | https://test.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:49:00 | 200 | GET | https://codec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:55 | 200 | GET | https://bak.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:47 | 200 | GET | https://coffeetec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:41 | 200 | GET | https://coffeetec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:38 | 200 | GET | https://exezhanqun.com.m.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:31 | 200 | GET | https://websocket.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:29 | 200 | GET | https://coffeetec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:27 | 200 | GET | https://websocket.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:26 | 200 | GET | https://bak.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:23 | 200 | GET | https://coffeetec.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:22 | 200 | GET | https://websocket.gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No | |
2025-04-14 01:48:19 | 200 | GET | https://gafei.com/index.php/ | text/html; charset=UTF-8 | No |
Session doesn't seem to be active.
s | article |
c | show |
id | 62157 |
m | index |
Priority | u=0, i |
Accept-Encoding | gzip, deflate, br, zstd |
Sec-Fetch-Dest | document |
Sec-Fetch-User | ?1 |
Sec-Fetch-Mode | navigate |
Sec-Fetch-Site | none |
Accept | text/html,application/xhtml+xml,application/xml;q=0.9,image/avif,image/webp,image/apng,*/*;q=0.8,application/signed-exchange;v=b3;q=0.7 |
User-Agent | Mozilla/5.0 AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko; compatible; ClaudeBot/1.0; +claudebot@anthropic.com) |
Upgrade-Insecure-Requests | 1 |
Sec-Ch-Ua-Platform | "Windows" |
Sec-Ch-Ua-Mobile | ?0 |
Sec-Ch-Ua | "HeadlessChrome";v="129", "Not=A?Brand";v="8", "Chromium";v="129" |
Cache-Control | no-cache |
Pragma | no-cache |
Host | gafei.com |
Priority | u=0, i |
Accept-Encoding | gzip, deflate, br, zstd |
Sec-Fetch-Dest | document |
Sec-Fetch-User | ?1 |
Sec-Fetch-Mode | navigate |
Sec-Fetch-Site | none |
Accept | text/html,application/xhtml+xml,application/xml;q=0.9,image/avif,image/webp,image/apng,*/*;q=0.8,application/signed-exchange;v=b3;q=0.7 |
User-Agent | Mozilla/5.0 AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko; compatible; ClaudeBot/1.0; +claudebot@anthropic.com) |
Upgrade-Insecure-Requests | 1 |
Sec-Ch-Ua-Platform | "Windows" |
Sec-Ch-Ua-Mobile | ?0 |
Sec-Ch-Ua | "HeadlessChrome";v="129", "Not=A?Brand";v="8", "Chromium";v="129" |
Cache-Control | no-cache |
Pragma | no-cache |
Host | gafei.com |
CodeIgniter Version: | 4.1.4 |
PHP Version: | 8.0.25 |
PHP SAPI: | fpm-fcgi |
Environment: | development |
Base URL: | https://gafei.com/ |
Timezone: | PRC |
Locale: | en |
Content Security Policy Enabled: | No |