當我們談到精品咖啡的時候,呈現在咖啡供應鏈裏的每一個步驟對於最後呈現在我們面前的咖啡成品都至關重要。那麼在咖啡從種子到杯子供應鏈裏一個非常重要的步驟是烘焙。
When it comes to specialty coffee, every step in the supply chain becomes extremely important in creating the final product that we enjoy as a cup of coffee. One hugely important step in the chain of coffee from seed to cup, is roasting.
咖啡烘焙從表面上講,似乎僅僅是一個簡單的過程,拿來咖啡生豆,加一些熱量,然後幾分鐘內你就有了烘培咖啡豆。也許對於一些沒有投入時間來享受更精細,更復雜的咖啡烘培方法的公司和顧客而言那就是咖啡烘培了,但對於專業的咖啡大師和顧客而言,烘培的過程會更加的注重細節也需要更多的投入。
Roasting coffee, on the surface, seems like a simple enough process of taking a green coffee bean, adding some heat, and in a few minutes you have roast coffee. While the process may be just that simple for some companies and consumers who don’t take the time to enjoy the finer, more complex aspects of coffee, for specialty coffee craftsmen and consumers the process is much more detailed and involved.
在烘培的過程中咖啡豆經歷着許多不同的化學和物理的變化,基於這些變化對於最後咖啡質量的影響很多仍然沒有被完全理解。一些影響咖啡烘培的因素(僅舉幾例)包括: 空氣流,熱源,溫度上升速率,轉鼓轉速 ( 對於烘培轉鼓而言),風扇速度,結束溫度和冷卻時間。
在烘培的過程中有如此多的影響咖啡質量的變量因素去控制和管理,也就見怪不怪了,每年會有那麼多的咖啡會被過度烘培,烘培不足或者因爲一些其他的因素而產生烘培瑕疵。
During the roasting process the coffee bean undergoes so many different chemical and physical changes that many are still not fully understood as to their impact on the coffee’s final quality. Some of the factors affecting the roast include airflow, heat source, rate of temperature rise, drum speed (for drum roasters), fan speed, ending temperature and cooling time, just to name a few.
With so many different variables to control and monitor during roasting that impact the quality of the roast, it’s no wonder that so many batches of coffee are (tragically) over-roasted, under-roasted or meet some other fate as a roasted defect each year.
有許多種不同的烘培瑕疵會出現,但是一些最常見的包括: 焙烤,頂部燒焦,破損豆,局部燒焦和 快速烘培。 你可以在舊版美國精品咖啡協會的咖啡風味輪的不恰當烘培部分看到所列舉的這些因素。
There are many different kinds of roast defects that can occur, but some of the most prevalent include: baking, tipping, chipping, scorching, and fast roasting. You can see a few of these listed on the old version SCAA’s Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel under Improper Roasting.
焙烤 Baking
焙烤可能出現在烘培過程的一些方面。可能由於烘培過程中溫度過低。於是確切的講焙烤是在整個咖啡的標準烘培時間12分鐘裏,溫度的提升是每分鐘1-2 攝氏度( 這裏僅談樣品烘培)。
如果說在烘培的過程中任何的增溫點內每分鐘的增溫率不上升反而下降,通常人們也叫烘烤烘培 。這通常會發生在接近一爆的時候,爲了防止豆子過度烘培,烘培師會關小熱源,要麼快速降溫或者長時間保持較低的溫度。
焙烤情況下的豆子,通常會表面顏色上看着像標準烘培,但是豆子內部的顏色將不會和豆子外部顏色相匹配。相對而言,標準烘培豆子內部顏色應該相對Agtron 數值淺 5 分。 相對標準烘培的咖啡的話,焙烤的咖啡嚐起來會非常的單調,無趣,也可能會有類似穀物或麪包的味道。
Baking can occur at a few places during roasting. It can occur from too low of heat applied throughout the roast, thus actually baking the coffee by only increasing the temperature 1-2 degrees per minute for a total roast time of well over the standard 12 minutes (talking about sample roasting).
Usually people will also call a roast baked if at any point during the roast the rate of rise per minute either doesn’t increase or actually drops. This usually happens near first crack when, in order to keep the beans from over-roasting, the roaster will lower the heat source and either lower it too far or keep it lowered for too long. Baking the roast will usually create a bean that on the outside looks like a standard roast, but the inside color of the bean will not match the outside, which for a standard roast the inside color should be around 5 points lighter using the Agtron scale.
A bakes cup will typically taste very flat and dull compared to a standard roast of the same coffee, and can also have grain or bread-like flavor notes.
頂部燒焦
頂部燒焦通常發生在被稱爲猛烈烘培的過程中,或者當太多的熱量被吸收的太快的話。豆子頂部接近胚芽的地方,會爆破而在豆子末端留下凹痕。頂部燒焦的咖啡通常會有類似臭鼬或者穀類作物的味道。
Tipping usually happens during what’s called a violent roast, or when too much heat is applied too quickly. The tip of the bean, near the embryo, bursts leaving a dark indention on the end of the bean. Tipped coffee will usually have a skunky or cereal-like flavor.
崩裂豆
崩裂豆與頂部燒焦的豆子有些類似,出現在激烈烘培的過程中,在深度烘焙的咖啡更爲普遍。當豆子最脆弱的薄膜承受不住壓力時,豆子內部的水分開始蒸發,進而發生爆破而在豆子的表面產生破裂。不要對頂部燒焦感到迷惑,崩裂豆通常出現在豆子的圓形的表面。崩裂豆自身不會產生風味瑕疵,但是經常出現在深度烘培的咖啡中。因此咖啡會有焦的,類似碳味的風味。
Chipping is similar to tipping in that it occurs during violent roasts and is more prevalent in dark roasted coffees. Chipping happens when the moisture level in the bean begins evaporating at such a rate that the weakest point of the bean membrane can no longer contain the pressure, bursting and creating a chip on the surface of the bean. Not to be confused with tipping,chipping usually occurs on the rounded surface of the bean. Chipping creates no flavor defect of its own, but almost always happens in dark roasted coffees, therefore the coffee will have dark, char-like flavor notes.
局部燒焦
局部燒焦的出現是基於有太高的轉鼓的控制溫度。控制溫度是基於當烘培師把生豆放在轉鼓中在烘培開始時的溫度。因爲較高的溫度,咖啡生豆的表面通常會出現局部燒焦。在豆子的表面留下黑點。
基於咖啡越來越深的顏色,你可能不能夠看清楚最後烘培豆上的黑點,這就意味着局部燒焦有時很難去發現。局部燒焦的豆子會在咖啡裏出現燒焦的灰塵的味道。
Scorching occurs due to having too high of a drum charge temperature. Charge temperature refers to the temperature at the beginning of the roast when the roaster places the green coffee inside the drum. Because of the high temperature, the surface of the green coffee will actually become scorched, leaving black marks on the surface of the bean.
You may or may not be able to see the marks clearly on the final roasted bean due to the darker color of the coffee, meaning scorching is sometimes harder to detect. The scorching creates a charred or ash-like flavor in the coffee.
快速烘焙
快速烘培是簡單的,當烘培師過快烘培豆子時出現。這種狀況出現在太多的熱量被吸收,並且加溫率過快,以至於咖啡沒有足夠的時間去在烘培的過程中很好的發展。豆子的表面將看起來像標準烘培的顏色,但是豆子的內部顏色很淺,並且有點發展不足。
很多時候,快速烘培,由於過快的加溫,也會導致顏色太深了。這樣咖啡豆過度烘培的表面就會產生一種混合的碳味和灰塵味,同時豆子的內部也會有發展不足的乾草或者草味。
A fast roast is simply that, when a roaster roasts the coffee too quickly. This happens when too much heat is applied and the rate of rise is so high that the coffee doesn’t have time to fully develop during the roast. The outside surface of the bean will look like a standard roast color, but the inside of the bean will be light and underdeveloped.
Many times fast roasts, because of the rapid heating, will also be taken too dark. This creates a combination of char and ash flavor from the over-roasted surface of the bean and under-developed hay or grass-like flavors from the inside of the bean.
烘焙師寄語:
由於在咖啡烘培的過程中有太多的變量因素需要去考慮去控制,那麼作爲精品咖啡的烘培師這也是必要的。因此我們要不斷的在這些問題上去學習探索,注意到這些變量,從而我們可以製作最好質量的咖啡,珍惜所有的咖農和在咖啡供應鏈裏將咖啡帶到烘培這一環節的參與者的辛勤工作,進而把真正可以稱作精品咖啡的產品提供給廣大消費者。
Because of the amount of variables to control and issues that can occur during coffee roasting, it’s imperative as specialty coffee artisans, that we educate ourselves on these issues and are aware so that we are able to craft the finest coffee quality possible, passing along all of the hard work of the farmers and everyone who has brought the coffee to this point in the supply chain, and deliver what can truly be called specialty coffee.
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