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來源：環球時報</p>
<p>
【環球時報赴韓國特派記者 崔傑通】“崔，你看!”順着韓國《東亞日報》記者朱勝河的手指望去，記者看到，三家咖啡店緊緊挨在一起(如圖)，燈光映着雨夜愈加一片通明。“這麼多的咖啡店，我們都中毒了!”他說。</p>
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<img alt="" src="http://himg2.huanqiu.com/attachment2010/2015/1118/15/22/20151118032237575.jpg" /></center>
<p>
我們站立的地方是首爾瑞草區江南城市廣場酒店附近的一個街角小廣場。走在首爾大街上，只要環顧周圍至少會發現一家咖啡店。2014年美國《國際商業時報》公佈的一項調查顯示，咖啡已超過泡菜——韓國的國菜，成爲該國消費最多的食品，平均起來，韓國人一週喝咖啡的次數爲12.2次，自16世紀就成爲韓國食品的泡菜平均每週喫11.9次，而每週喫米飯的次數則是6.9次。</p>
<p>
“如果你在首爾多待幾天，就會發現，中午一起喫飯的時候，公司同事之間基本上是不說話的，喫飯之後他們一聲不響同時起身離開，然後直奔咖啡店，那裏纔是他們聊天、談事情的處所，這是一種默契，一種習慣。”在首爾留學的李美蓮對《環球時報》記者說，“幾年前我剛來首爾時不喝咖啡，別人喝我就看着，但不喝咖啡你融不進去，現在我也在喝”。</p>
<p>
咖啡最初被引入韓國是19世紀晚期，在日本對朝鮮半島的殖民統治時期開始流行，20世紀50年代朝鮮戰爭中，美國大兵將速溶咖啡帶到韓國，使得咖啡更加流行，但咖啡館遍地開花形成一種文化僅發生在最近20年間。1999年，美國咖啡連鎖巨人星巴克在韓國久負盛名的梨花女子大學開業，這是它在首爾的第一家店，到2014年店面已接近300家。韓國成均館大學教授丹尼爾·施韋肯迪克評論說，“捧着一個星巴克的紙杯沿街道而行成爲一個身份地位的象徵，就像你的手臂上挎着一個名牌包”。咖啡在韓國成爲一個階級身份的指示器，以至於韓國出現“豆瓣醬女孩”這樣的文化現象，“豆瓣醬女孩”是指爲了攢錢買奢侈品而選擇不喫肉的女孩，因爲在韓國豆瓣醬是十分廉價的食品。2012年席捲世界的韓國神曲《江南style》中，歌者不無諷刺地唱道：哪裏有知道如何享受一杯咖啡自由的漂亮女孩。</p>
<p>
“想生活在首爾嗎?13件事你必須習慣。”專門向外國人推介、宣傳首爾的seoulistic網站列出的單子上，咖啡店排在泡菜、金屬筷子、燒酒、席地而坐、鞠躬之前，儘管後者在世人印象中均早已是韓國的形象標識。事實上，韓國已經將咖啡納入本國文化的一部分，在許多耳熟能詳的韓劇中，咖啡館隨處可見，一些韓國咖啡連鎖店借“韓流”之勢已將店開到了巴黎、紐約、北京等世界各地。據瞭解，首爾的星巴克店爲284家，排名世界第一，這讓美國紐約都相形見絀。沒人知道韓國的“咖啡狂熱”會持續多久。激烈的市場競爭下，許多韓國咖啡店業主開始選擇低價戰略，市場拼殺日益激烈。</p>
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