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'北歐咖啡遊記（四）咖啡連鎖店在北歐爲何沒有優勢。'

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'專業咖啡師交流 請關注咖啡工房(微信公衆號cafe_style ) 歡迎來到哥德堡！輪到我們做你的嚮導了。從奧斯陸乘巴士南下，前往這個瑞典的第二大城市僅需3小時。接待我們的，是曾在香港留學半年的瑞典大學生Harry和Johanna。在挪威期間，這兩個發燒友已經跟隨筆'

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'2017-08-09 14:35:39'

'2017-08-09 14:38:39'

'107212'

''

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'<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/170809/3-1FP9143QA94.jpg" style="width: 640px; height: 424px;" /><br />
<span style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微軟雅黑, 黑體, Arial; font-size: 14px;">專業咖啡師交流 請關注咖啡工房(微信公衆號cafe_style )</span><br />
<br />
<div>
	　　&ldquo;歡迎來到哥德堡！輪到我們做你的嚮導了。&rdquo;從奧斯陸乘巴士南下，前往這個瑞典的第二大城市僅需3小時。接待我們的，是曾在香港留學半年的瑞典大學生Harry和Johanna。在挪威期間，這兩個發燒友已經跟隨筆者四處拜訪，參觀過的，還包括老友不對外開放的烘焙工場和貨倉。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　哥德堡（Gothenburg）位於瑞典西部，是個充滿活力的城市。除了大專院校林立，每年有數十萬遊客到訪出席各式展覽。較知名的，包括有哥德堡國際電影節（Goteborg International Film Festival）、書展（Gothenburg Book Fair）、國際科學節（The International Science Festival in Gothenburg）以及夏季的音樂節。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　&ldquo;有大學之處就有咖啡館&rdquo;，哥德堡也不例外。剛開業初期，筆者曾在瑞典首都斯德哥爾摩（Stockholm）一間叫koppi的咖啡店買豆品嚐。時至今日，店主Anne已經成爲了北歐精品咖啡名人。跟她一時瑜亮的Da Matteo，就是我們的第一站。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　戶外自由擺放椅子？</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　從街上看，位於Magasinsgatan的Da Matteo總店就像一座單層高的貨倉。門口的空地，雖說是時租泊車位，但在夏季會被戶外座位佔據。這裏的咖啡店、炒豆機、杯測房和麪包工場並無實牆間隔，吧檯物料也是原木製作，感覺時尚自然。在食肆發牌制度極其嚴謹的香港，這裏定不合格。要在戶外自由擺放椅子？更是幾近妄想。不過話說回來，香港的所謂戶外﹕舉頭望大廈、人煙稠密、來自巴士煞車的刺耳聲浪。買外賣，又可到哪裏喝？</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　烘焙師Patrik已從Harry帶回國的&ldquo;手信&rdquo;試過筆者炒的咖啡。雖是初相識，卻已對香港的烘焙風格有了大概的印象。原來瑞典業界最大的挑戰和我們一樣，是要令大衆分辨精品與商用的分別。當地咖啡店雖多，但大多數只是fika（類似工作期間的tea break）的場所。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　租約以10年爲標準</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　之後拜訪的店，令筆者感受更深。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　Kale&rsquo;i kaffebar位於住宅區。在一個毫不起眼，被民房圍繞的內庭裏，由一條石頭堆砌的小巷引領到白色的大門。整間店就像一個studio﹕一個餅櫃，一部意式咖啡機。這店的豆，是筆者老友Kafferostare （瑞典語，譯作烘焙師）Per Nordby 的作品。不知是老闆還是店員的女生蜷在梳化上閱讀，整個下午，就只有我們數人光顧。Johanna解釋道，瑞典跟香港不同，他們的營商環境比我們穩定：除了便宜的租金，當地的租約以10年爲標準，所以創業者有充足的時間建立品牌。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　難怪連鎖店在北歐沒有優勢了。</div>
'

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